,
a Romantic Getaway in New Buffalo 
New Buffalo casino brings a crowd to Harbor Country
Four Winds Casino and Resort has a half-dozen restaurants and a 165-room hotel. (Four Winds Casino and Resort photo / November 22, 2007)
NEW BUFFALO, Mich. -
First thing's first: Gambling can be dangerous.
Casinos, on the other hand, are fascinating.
Think about it: Top-notch restaurants, well-appointed hotel suites,
luxurious spa services, live entertainment, boutique retail outlets,
free-flowing alcohol and, of course, gaming galore -- in most cases,
at all hours. Minus the whole "experience nature" thing,
casinos essentially provide all the major amenities of a luxury
vacation under one neon-clad roof.
They're also not without their annoyances: that
steady hum of ringing slot machines tuned to the pleasant key of C
major, which can get stuck in your head for days; and, despite
advanced air filtration systems, the lingering stench of smoke.
But it's all part of the experience. Staying at a casino -- even
just for a weekend (I wouldn't recommend any longer) -- means
immersing yourself in a culture that may be foreign from your own.
Which, when you think about it, is the whole point.
So, where to go? The obvious destination for experiencing casino
culture is Las Vegas.
And then there's New Buffalo.
About 2 miles from downtown New Buffalo (population 2,200) lies the
brand-new $180 million Four Winds Casino Resort, which opened its
doors Aug. 2. The place is huge. It boasts 130,000 square feet of
"gaming positions" (actual seats at slot machines or
gaming tables) which, were it located in Las Vegas, would make it
the second-largest casino on the Strip; plus a half-dozen
restaurants and a modest 165-room hotel.
And, when I visited two weeks ago, all of its grandeur seemed
absolutely necessary, due to the sheer volume of visitors. As I
approached the long, winding drive leading to the casino nestled in
the woods, I encountered something I've never before experienced in
New Buffalo: traffic. People were lined up in their cars, waiting to
park in one of the 2,120 spots in the heated, four-level parking
garage and commence spending money. And after hanging out for a few
days, it's easy to see why: The place is beautiful -- and, perhaps
more importantly, resembles nothing of the gaudy glam of Vegas.
Designed by Urban Design Group (which counts Disney among its
clients) and owned by the Pokagon Band of Potawatomi Indians, Four
Winds has the look and feel of a regal North Woods lodge, situated
far enough back from Interstate Highway 94 that the "woodland
retreat" facade is believable.
Just inside the entrance, a grand rotunda (on which a local Pokagon
artist will soon begin a mural project) is flanked by two
ridiculously huge fireplaces; the beams lining the arcades (leading
to shops and a bus terminal at one end, the hotel at the other) were
carved from dead standing cedar and birch trees, which are often
used in tribal ceremonies for the Pokagon band.
At the heart of it all is the gaming floor itself, which, despite
the refreshing lack of neon, looks like a casino (darkly lit,
maze-like carpet, banks and bars at every turn), but the restaurants
tucked within could stand alone -- even in Chicago.
There are six of them, ranging from high-end steakhouse (Copper Rock
Steakhouse), to upscale sushi (SWIMM) and down-to-earth deli
(Timbers). There are white tablecloths. There are wine lists 300
bottles strong. There is a buffet that looks, feels and tastes too
good to be a buffet. And there is a 24-hour comfort food cafe whose
decor rivals sit-down luncheon spots in the Loop.
And then there's the hotel. Although void of typical luxury hotel
amenities -- no spa, no pool, no concierge (when I unwittingly
inquired at the front desk about changing a dinner reservation with
the concierge, I was met with a blank, almost apologetic stare) --
the rooms, and their flawlessly vacant views of the surrounding
woods ripe with fall color, more than make up for it.
Mine, a 500-square-foot Junior Suite (from $269 per night), featured
a king-size bed, two flat-screen TVs, a full living room and wet
bar.
The place was big enough to justify a tiny hallway between the main
suite and the equally huge bathroom, where a soaking tub and a large
shower took up barely half the chamber. (Apparently, Junior Suites
are the norm: there are 72 of them versus 67 standard rooms --
themselves, a hardly modest 400 square feet; more upscale yet are
two dozen 800-square-foot Deluxe Suites and a handful of
1,000-square-foot Celebrity Suites.)
As a foreigner to the land of casinos, these elements -- the
architecture, the cuisine, the accommodations -- are the most
enjoyable things about dipping into casino culture, possibly -- no,
definitely -- because they have nothing to do with gambling.
Here in Harbor Country, there are lingering reminders of Sin City
stereotypes: ashtrays everywhere (literally -- including bathroom
stalls), cocktail waitresses donning outfits that could pass as
leftover Halloween costumes, oxygen tanks being dragged along to
craps tables.
But it's also easily escapable. Downtown New Buffalo, which brings a
healthy dose of weekender retreat, is a five-minute drive west; the
southern tip of the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail is a 10-minute
drive; Warren Dunes State Park is 15. There is the lake; there are
antique stores; there are quaint cafes at which to sip coffee. And
none of them is smoky or ringing with slot machines (see 5 More
Reasons to Go).
Unlike Vegas, when you've had enough, home is just an hour's drive
away -- and as the old saying goes, what happens in New Buffalo
stays in New Buffalo.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Four Winds Casino Resort is about a 75- to 90-minute drive from
Chicago, depending on traffic. Take Interstate Highway 90 to the
Indiana Toll Road, then merge onto I-94 toward Detroit. exit at
M-239/La Porte Road toward New Buffalo. From there, turn right on La
Porte Road, then make a left on Wilson Road. The casino entrance is
on the left and is clearly marked.
Four Winds offers free shuttle service from six Chicago area pick-up
points, including one in Chinatown. The shuttle ride is 90 minutes;
pick-up times vary depending on location. (866-711-1997; http://www.fourwinds
casinoshuttle.com)
GETTING AROUND
Four Winds Casino Resort is about a five-minute drive from New
Buffalo, in the region of Southwestern Michigan known as Harbor
Country (www.har borcountry.com). While downtown New Buffalo itself
is small and walkable, getting there from the casino and exploring
the surrounding region requires having access to a car.
STAYING THERE
Rates at the Four Winds Casino Resort start at $229 on weekdays.
Note that the majority of rooms are set aside for the casino's best
and frequent customers, so booking well in advance is advised.
(866-494-6371; http://www.fourwindscasino.com
)
DINING THERE
There are six restaurants on the Four Winds Casino Resort property.
Copper Rock Steakhouse is the casino's traditional, white-tablecloth
steakhouse where a variety of meat (prime rib, New York strip, filet
mignon and the like), seafood and shellfish entrees average $40.
Copper Rock offers 300 wines (bottles average $60, glasses $12), as
well as V.I.P. wine lockers for true gambling oenophiles who intend
to make repeat visits. The casino's contemporary seafood restaurant
is SWIMM, which offers "from the tank" specialties as well
as traditional seafood entrees (average $22) and a full sushi menu
-- most of it shipped in from Chicago's fish markets. Willowbrook
Cafe, which had me fooled into thinking it was an upscale
restaurant, is the casino's sole 24-hour dining option. The theme is
comfort food (chili, chicken noodle soup, hush puppies and the like)
but, unlike most all-night spots, it's actually a pleasant
experience.
Other choices include The Buffet, which seats 400 and still draws a
line for every meal; a small coffee/sandwich outpost called Silver
Creek Bistro; and Timbers Fast Food & Deli which, despite
running out of pizza on a Saturday night (drawing a fair amount of
flak from the drunken casino crowd), serves its purpose just fine.
-- Lauren Viera
5 MORE REASONS TO GO
1. NEW BUFFALO
While it's possible to entertain one's self for an entire weekend
without ever stepping foot outside Four Winds, it'd be a shame not
to at least stretch your legs on Whittaker Street. Meet the locals
for a drink (Stray Dog Bar & Grill: 269-469-2727; http://www.eatatthedog.com
), scope the retail scene (Whittaker House: 269-469-0220; http://www.whittakerhouse.com
; plus various shops along Red Arrow Highway) and stay for dinner
(Bentwood Tavern: 269-469-9900; http://www.marinagrandresort.com
).
2. WARREN DUNES STATE PARK
Spending a few hours within the windowless, clockless chambers of
the Four Winds casino is bound to awaken a new appreciation for the
outdoors. While the $8 entry fee is a little steep (for out-of-state
plates; locals pay $6), it's worth it for the unspoiled view of the
lake and the towering dunes, and the half-dozen miles of hiking
trails woven throughout.
3. THREE OAKS
This tiny, artsy village is an easy 10-minute drive from the casino
and offers several alternatives should the slots get too tight: live
theater (Acorn Theater: 269-756-3879; http://www.acorn
theater.com), art-house flicks (Vickers Theatre: 269-756-3522; http://www.vickerstheatre.com
), a handful of galleries (among them, Aaron Packer's satellite to
his River North gallery), a 130-year-old meat market (Drier's Meat
Market: 888-521-3999; http://www.driers.com
) and casual dining (Vio la: 269-756-9420. Froelich's: 269-756-6002;
http://www.shopfroehlichs.com
).
4. THE WINERIES
Four Winds is at the foot of the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail,
which extends from Union Pier north to Saugatuck. It 's off-season
for "Sideways"-style winery hopping, but several bottlers
keep their tasting room outposts open throughout winter (www.miwinetrail.com).
If all else fails, buy a bottle at . . .
5. WHISTLE STOP GROCERY About a 10-minute drive from the casino,
this small deli-bakery-cafe stocks gourmet treats and cooking
staples, sells local and imported wines, and bakes up the best
pastries in Harbor Country. (269-469-6700; http://www.whistlestopgrocery.com
)
-- Lauren Viera